I have a label on all my cornies.... will the BB be able to 'overcome' the edge of the label?
The indicator bead should work just fine with labels. Our kegs have the clear plastic labels from the vendor and we've never experienced any issues. If you send a picture of the kegs, we could let you know for sure.
Does the ball inside need to be so big? I feel like it would tough to fit into a full keg? Do you make a smaller one?
After our first month, we switched production to a 2" diameter ball and it is noticeably smaller and more durable. Only a 1/2" of the ball is exposed above the fluid line. That should fit within the headspace of the keg under any situation.
I keg exclusively in Sankey Kegs. Do you, or will you ever, produce a float small enough to fit in a Sankey Keg?
We don't have one at this time, but we have been asked. Our Patent would cover that device as well, so we will look into it once we get settled with the current product.
I fill my kegs with a CO2 push from my conical. Can I sanitize and place the float in the keg (which would then be purged with CO2) before filling?
That is no problem. Purge with CO2 and fill as normal. After it is filled, "find" the float with the black disc locator magnet, making sure the orange side is on the keg. You might want to practice this a couple times with the keg open and filled with water before you close it up. It's a little more difficult when you can't see the float. We can usually find it in a few seconds, but we've done it quite a few times. We recommend that you leave the magnet on the keg while you move it and only add the indicator bead once the keg is in position in your kegerator or keezer.
Hi,I use a clear beer keg system which uses a metal or aluminum float. Will this cause an issue with the floating ball/magnet?
We've had quite a few customers tell us it works with a variety of hop canisters within their keg so we don't think this should be a problem. You would want to keep the black capture magnet attached to the keg and float inside until you get the keg in place and hooked up in your cooler. That would lessen the likelihood that the clear beer float would dislodge the level indicator float. Let us know how it works for you! Thanks
Is the magnet strong enough to hold a float while I turn my keg on the side and 4 CO2 are rolling it back and forth for 10 minutes. Thanks
The magnet would not hold the float while you carbonate the keg in this manner. However, after it is carbonated, you can "find" the float with the black disc locator magnet without re-opening the keg. You might want to practice this a couple times with the keg open and filled with water before you close it up. It's a little more difficult when you can't see the float. We can usually find it in a few seconds, but we've done it quite a few times. We recommend that you leave the magnet on the keg while you move it and only add the indicator bead once the keg is in position in your kegerator or keezer.
Surprised this hasn't been asked. It seems like when moving kegs around (adding a new one to the fridge for example), it will be fairly easy to knock the little orange ball off. Should that happen, is it easy enough to get it reattached to get the system working again?
Good question. You can potentially knock the bead loose if you hit it with another keg or a hose while moving things. If your Kegerator or Keezer is tight on space, we recommend that you simply re-attach the black locator magnet to the keg that may get bumped. That way you cannot knock it off and you can easily re-apply the orange bead after you are done moving things around. If you do knock one off, you can find it again. It is easier to find the float if you know the general level of the liquid in the keg.
I force carbonate at 30 psi. It appears that the float is a sealed ball, will it deform under pressure?
The float is designed to operate at all normal force carbonation pressures. 30 to 50 psi is not an issue. Thanks
I bought some of these for use when filling kegs. I'd like to know when a keg is almost full before beer comes shooting out of the pressure relief valve. Unfortunately this system doesn't work so well for that purpose. The ball doesn't drag the bead up with it and eventually the bead just falls off. Do you know of any way that I can make that work?
We do make one for that option now. It works nicely for filling and draining. Shoot us an email and we will work out the order. Thanks
How precise is the movement and how big is the bead? I want to be able to measure exactly how much beer I've got in the keg after racking from the fermenter. Do you think I'd be able to measure to +/-50ml?
The indicator bead is 1/4" diameter. 50 ml is probably too tight to guarantee a measurement. I would say 250 ml is more reasonable, roughly one half of a standard size beer.
I knocked off my orange bead (BB) level indicator of my keg in the keezer by accident and I'm having trouble trying to reconnect to the main float. My guess is that the magnet is affected by the cold and therefore is difficult to reconnect to the BB. Is that correct?
The temperature will not affect the magnetic properties of the product. If you roughly know the level of the bead before you knocked it off, you can find the float with the capture magnet. It may take a minute or two moving it around the keg to get the float to capture. If you don't know the rough location of the float, it will be better to pop the lid off the keg and locate the float with the magnet while you are looking into the keg.
Any advice on sanitizing the ball after being in a keg with a brett beer so it is safe to put in a clean beer?
You can soak the polypropylene ball in weak bleach solution or sanitizer for an extended period of time. You could also soak the float for a few minutes in some water heated to 185 F to sanitize the ball. Do not heat the ball over water boiling temperature and avoid extended heating conditions as that can weaken the magnet.
For the temperature control with thermowell, do you recommend the long inkbird sensor (12"), or is the standard short one fine?
Also, are there any pumps you recommend?
The short temperature probe is fine. The thermowell is long enough to go down into the liquid. Any 80 to 120 gph fountain or pond pump is fine. You need a 1/4” to 5/16” outlet on the pump. We’ve been using one that was less than $10 on Amazon for two years now. The silicone tubing wil slip over the outlet easily and should stay in place without a clamp.
If using 0 F glycol fluid through your temp control coil, what temp differential can be expected if using a plastic fermenter that has been moderately insulated?
You can easily get your fermenter down to the mid 40's F using ice water at 32 F and decent insulation. We have not tried glycol at 0 F, but you should be able to achieve fermenter temps in the low to mid 30's F without too much insulation. Please let us know how it works for you.